Well some seeds are in the mail to all those who have requested them - some of you have already received them. If you need more or know of someone who would like to get in on the action too, just let me know. I've got plenty more to share.

One grower asked that I post the same information on this blog that I've sent out with the seeds. Easy enough, and good idea!

Germination of Atlantic Giant Seeds (taken from internet site: www.pumpkinnook.com)

Here are some recommended step by step instructions to maximize germination:
1. File the edges of the seed lightly with a nail file. File all edges except the pointed end. This allows moisture into the seed easier. Most importantly, filing your seeds makes it easier for the leaves to emerge from the shell without damage. The shell of giant pumpkin seeds are very thick, and the leaves sometimes have difficulty splitting open the shell. To avoid pinched or damaged primary leaves, we recommend filing the edges of the seeds for all giant pumpkins. As a matter of fact, it will aid germination and seedling emergence for any hard shelled pumpkin seed or other seeds.
2. Soak the seeds in warm (not hot) water for an hour or two. Note some growers soak them for several hours.
3. Wet a paper towel and gently squeeze the water out. Place the seeds between the paper towel and gently squeeze out the air. Place the wet paper towel inside a sealable baggie. This way the seed does not dry out and you can see it begin to sprout.
4. Provide bottom warmth to the seeds. Many people use a germination mat which will improve germination rates and speed the process..
5. Fill six inch peat pots with soil. Use a Seed Starter mix if you are new at growing pumpkins. Experienced growers will make a concoction containing starter mix and a number of other things. I add a little ash from the fireplace and some mulch. Add the mulch in the bottom inch or two of the pot and make sure it is clean of insects. Set the pots aside until the seeds have begun to sprout.
6. Sow the seeds carefully in the pots after they have begun to sprout. They are ready when the roots have just begun to grow, and the leaves are just starting to pull apart the shell, usually in three to five days.
7. Place the seed either on it's side or with the roots pointing down. Most people say to put the root end pointing down. It doesn't make much difference at this point. But, do not place the leaves pointing down. Be careful not to harm the root.
8. Add one to 1 1/2 inches of soil to cover. Water thoroughly.
9. Apply bottom heat for two to three days. Once the plant has sprouted, stop the bottom heat as it can harm the roots. Again, germination mats work best.
10. Now the wait begins! In four to six days the seedling will emerge from the soil. Emerge is a misnomer. Healthy plants will all but explode from the soil, growing at a fast pace even as a seedling.
11. Note that total time may vary, but it is usually a week to ten days. If they have not sprouted after ten days, start a second planting.
TIP: Coating the seeds with a fungicide will offer protection against mold and fungus growth.

GROWING GIANT PUMPKINSBasic Cultural Practices
by Joel Holland (These are guidelines to raise a “World Class” pumpkin only! A lot of this information far exceeds what it takes to grow a Giant Pumpkin in your backyard!)
SOIL PREPARATION: Minimum space is approx. 300 sq. ft. per plant. Doubling this space or even more would be an advantage, and will generally result in larger pumpkins. Prepare the soil by cultivation. Rake out larger stones, clumps of sod, etc. Incorporate into the soil an inch or more of organic matter in the form of compost, aged manure, peat moss, leaf mold, or rotted straw. Adjust pH to 6.0 - 7.0. Prior to planting, broadcast a balanced organic or commercial granular type fertilizer, and work into the soil.
STARTING SEEDS: Start seeds in 4" peat pots about May 1 - 10, depending on local conditions. The tendency is to start too early, which generally works against the grower. The plants will need warm soil and settled weather to grow well. Seeds germinate best at 80 - 95 degrees F. Germination will be slow and may fail at cool room temperature of 65 - 70 degrees F. A commercial propagation mat may be used, or a warm microenvironment. Some examples would be: Over a hot water tank, In the oven with just the light on, In a cooler chest with warm bottles of water inside, On a mantle near stove, etc. Excess heat is to be avoided and moistened pots must be covered to avoid drying. Fill moistened peat pots with a good light potting soil.. Seeds may be pre-sprouted between moist towels to 1/4" root protrusion and then planted one to each 4" pot, rooted side down and 1/2" soil over the rounded end.
TRANSPLANTING: After 2 - 5 days, transplant the potted plant to prepared growing beds. Protect young seedlings with properly ventilated cloches or mini-greenhouses. Water as necessary to avoid heat stress or wilting. When well established, cloches may be removed. Wind protection may be needed until plant is well anchored with vines on the ground. Mound soil over vines at several leaf axils to stabilize plant and to encourage secondary rooting from the vines. Water as needed, adding balanced soluble fertilizer to water once per week. Control weeds with mulching, shallow cultivation, and hand weeding as necessary. Remember, shallow roots may extend 4 ft. or more out from perimeter of the plant.
FRUIT SET: The plant should blossom and set fruit between July 1 and 20. Male blossom will appear first. Males are on long stems with a rod like structure inside the flower, which is coated with pollen. The first open male flowers will generally be towards the center of the plant. Female flowers are on a short stem, and have a small round yellow pumpkin behind the flower. 'The first female flower to open will be out from the center of the plant on one of the vigorously growing vines. In the absence of bee activity or to get an earlier set, the grower my hand pollinate a newly opened female blossom with several of the fresh male flowers. Pick several newly opened male flowers and tear away the yellow flower portion, exposing the pollen-bearing stamen. Leave part of the stem to use as a handle and gently roll the pollen from the males onto the stigma in the center of the newly opened female blossom. Depending on temperature and weather, this is generally done from early to mid morning. Males from the same plant as the female to be pollinated may be used, (self pollinated). However, for best seed quality, it is best to use males from a separate and not closely related plant, (cross pollinated). The plant must be large enough to support a fast growing pumpkin; therefore setting a fruit too early can have a negative result. The plant should have a minimum of 100 - 150 leaves before a pumpkin is set.
PRUNING: To avoid rampant crossing vine growth, it is advisable to trim and prune. Generally 3 - 5 primary vines are allowed to grow out from the center of the plant in different directions. Side vines will develop on each of the primary vines, alternately at each leaf.. These side vines are allowed to grow, but are trained away from one another or pinched back before they cross. These side vines would in turn produce their own set of vines alternating at each leaf. The third set of vines (tertiary vines) is removed from each secondary vine when they are small or in the bud stage. This results in a more open plant with better air circulation, which can help prevent disease problems. A pumpkin can be set on each of these primary vine structures. After 2 - 3 weeks select down to the best 2 pumpkins.
STEM STRESS: Stress or tightness can develop where the stem of the pumpkin attaches to the vine. The vine must lift off the ground, as the pumpkin grows taller. The vine will be rooted to the ground on the under side. These roots must be severed several feet each way from the pumpkin. Also as the pumpkin grows the shoulders of the fruit on the stem end my contact the vine and create stress. This usually happens on the side away from the center of the plant. The pumpkin may be moved very slowly 1 inch per day until it is at a 90-degree angle to the vine, (both shoulders equal distance from the vine on each side of the stem). Never move the pumpkin early in the morning as the stem and vines are brittle when it is cool. Adjustments should be made a little at a time in the afternoon, starting when the pumpkin is approx. basketball size.
It is helpful to have the pumpkin growing on the outside of a curved section of the vine. In this way the pumpkin will have more room to develop without pushing on it’s vine. The vine can be manipulated at the time of fruit set, so the female blossom is on the outside of a curved section of the vine. Stem stress symptoms can develop very quickly with a fast growing pumpkin. The vines near the pumpkin should be checked frequently for tightness. As the pumpkin grows taller, several feet of vine will be supported by the stem of the pumpkin in both directions. It is helpful to support the weight of the vine with blocks of Styrofoam or other material in order to take the stress of the stem.
SHADING: when the pumpkin is small, the leaves of the plant will shade it. When the pumpkin grows larger, shade should be provided. Shading reduces the aging stress of direct sunlight on the tender skin of the fruit, and allows the shell to expand and stay flexible longer. Shading also reduces the internal temperature of the pumpkin, reducing the threat of rotting or splitting.
SPLITTING OR CRACKING: Each year many large pumpkins crack or split while growing at a rapid rate. We walk a fine line. The grower wants his pumpkin to grow as fast as possible in order to reach a large size, and as a result may step over the unmarked line (Sustainable growth curve). Some seed stocks are more at risk than others, especially those with genetic potential to produce pumpkins over 700 lbs. Some factors that may help to avoid splitting include:
-Try to grow your pumpkin at an even moderate pace over the entire season.
-Avoid large doses of fertilizer and water at critical phases of the pumpkin growth cycle.
- High level of soil organic matter and an even concomitant moisture level can help moderate and buffer against growth spurts and stops.
Multiple fruits on a risky cultivator, may act as shock absorbers, spreading a surge in uptake over two or three pumpkins. Applying a fungicide and reducing water and fertilizer to the plant can manage minor cracks. Stem splits often appear much worse than they are. The stem is hollow and may split all the way through and tear into the flesh of the pumpkin a small amount. Sometimes this releases the stress allowing the pumpkin to continue to develop. Treat all wounds sites with fungicide, allow for good air circulation, and keep the area dry. Occasionally a stem split or a surface crack will continue to expand and deepen until the seed cavity is breached. Once the seed cavity is exposed to the outside atmosphere, the pumpkin is no longer a viable candidate for competition. No effort should be taken in regards to plugging or patching, as the pumpkin will rot from the inside out
PESTS AND DISEASE: Problems vary widely from region to region. In the Northwest, Giant pumpkin plants are relatively free of pest and disease problems. Sometimes black aphids appear o the undersides of the leaves later in the season. Aphids can spread the mosaic virus, but this has not been a major problem for Northwest growers. It is best to contact an experienced local grower for specific problems regards to insect or disease problems effecting pumpkins or squash in you area. Where vine borers and cucumber beetles are present, plants my need preventative action before pests are active.
For more information and advice try this website: http://www.backyardgardener.com/secert.html

Reference Areas Where to find more information…
Our Message Board: Check out the Web Log or “Blog” message board for growers of Giant Pumpkins in the Western Montana area: http://giantpumpkins.blogspot.com/ This is a new site created to seek and share local pumpkin-related questions, answers and general stories of the trials and tribulations of raising giant pumpkins in Western Montana. This site is under development and too new to know what will be available just yet, but stay tuned, bookmark it, and c'mon back. Email your pumpkin questions or comments or answers to other grower’s troubles to mtgiants@bigsky.net and check the weblog for all responses. If you would like seasonal growing tips emailed to you, send us a message. Anyone game for building us a webpage?
Are you game for entering our Bitterroot Giant Pumpkin Weigh Off? If so, please email or call ahead. mtgiants@bigsky.net or (406) 961-4632
Books Highly Recommended!!>Considered the “Bibles” on growing Giant Pumpkins: How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins and How-to-Grow World Class Giant Pumpkins, II. Both by Don Lanevin. To order 1-800-985-7878 or visit www.bigpumpkin.com
Also, The Perfect Pumpkin, by Gail Damerow. To order 1-800-441-5700 or visit www.storey.com
Videos: Holland’s Land O’ Giants, Joel and Mari Lou Holland, P. O. Box 969, Sumner, WA 98390
Internet Web Sites and Message Boards
The Pumpkin Patch – Everything you ever wanted to know about Pumpkins! Check out this site for many informative links and join a free newsletter with timely updates as to what pumpkin gardeners should be doing in their patch. http://www.backyardgardener.com/pumkin.html
Dill’s Atlantic Giant, World’s Largest Pumpkin Variety. http://www.howarddill.com/
Monty’s Joy Juice is a new fertilizer making a name for itself in raising giant pumpkins. Grow your biggest possible pumpkin. Ask for it at your garden store or visit and www.montysjoyjuice.com

A National Message Board of the heavy hitters: majordomo@mallorn.net Type in “subscribe pumpkins [your email address]” in the body of email. Leave subject line blank.
The archives of this message board are a wealth of information regarding Giant Pumpkin challenges, without needing to subscribe. Search the mallorn list archives at www.hort.net/lists//pumpkins/


Phew! If you made it through all that, then you are well prepared to raise a giant.
Now all you need is good seed, good weather, and GOOD LUCK!!!!

Let me know if I can be of any help.
Kim